Best PC Case Fans in 2023 (Including 80, 120, 140, and 200mm)

How We Choose

Whether we’re reviewing new monitors or the best GPU on the market, choosing the right hardware can always be a tricky task.

It requires hours of product research, performance benchmarking, and reviewing user feedback to get anywhere close to a definitive conclusion on what to recommend.

If you aren’t tech-savvy and struggle to put the time aside to go through the above requirements, you may end up purchasing a case fan that simply doesn’t suit your specific needs.

Fear not though, friends! Here at WePC, we like to take the stress of research away and transform the whole process into an easy-to-follow, complete buyers guide. That’s right, our team of PC enthusiasts has done all the hard work for you!

How We Test

Testing the products we recommend is a huge part of the overall selection process in our best of guides. It’s a way to make sure what we recommend is, without a doubt, the best option in its specific category.

To be sure a product is “the best” it must show excellent performance in our tests, and display better qualities and features than the competition it faces.

Most of the products we recommend here at WePC have gone through a strict testing process that involves everything from the price and performance, to build quality, efficiency, and aesthetics.

Doing this enables us to provide you with the most accurate review of how the product performs and, ultimately, whether it’s worth your consideration.

Things To Consider

You need to consider the following factors when buying the best PC case fans to ensure they will not only fit inside your system but also keep it sufficiently cool as well.

So, let’s jump into the most important things to consider when looking at the best case fans of 2022.

Static Pressure Fans or Airflow Fans?

The first thing you have to consider is whether you’re better off getting a fan with high static pressure or a fan with high airflow. This is determined by the actual shape of the fan blades. Yes, that’s right. You can get the exact same shape and model of a fan, only with different fan blades.

You don’t need to go through the spec sheet to tell if the fan is either a Static Pressure or an Airflow type.

Simply look at the fan face on and look at the distance between the fan blades. If the spacing between the blades is small, it’s a Static Pressure type. If the distance is large enough for your index finger to go through, it’s an Airflow type fan.

Airflow Fans

These work best if there are no restrictions in front or behind the fan. For instance, if you have a case that has plenty of open space, these fans should give your case a more efficient airflow.

Static Pressure Fans

Static pressure fans disperse air more evenly. This means they are not as powerful in a direct line, but that they can do a good job when there are obstructions such as components and radiators.

CFM Meaning (Cubic Feet per Minute)

So, what is CFM? Well, a fan’s airflow is measured in CFM or cubic feet per minute. This determines the volume of air the fan can cycle through in a minute.

Generally, the higher the CFM rating, the better. However, when dealing with hardware obstructions, static pressure can be more efficient with less CFM.

The ideal CFM for a PC can change on a case to case basis because there are a lot of factors that need to be considered. Factors such as case size, design, the amount of heat your CPU pumps out, the type of CPU cooler you have, the GPU fans (whether it’s an open-air or a blower type), and the number of case fans you can install.

Size (mm)

Why would you want larger fans? Well, it is pretty basic: they literally move more air.

In case you’re not sure which size fits your case, simply check your case manual. You can also visit the manufacturer’s website to see the dimensions and specs of your case. And if all else fails, simply grab a measuring tape and measure the fan inside your case.

Below are some of the most common fan sizes along with the distance between their screw holes:

Speed (RPMs)

A fan’s speed is measured in RPM (Revolutions Per Minute). The higher the RPM, the more air is pulled into the system. RPMs have a direct effect on a fan’s noise level because the faster it spins, the more noise it produces.

This might also affect the size of the fan you want. While you might be able to use a small fan at a fast speed, it will likely be louder. So, instead, you can use a larger fan at a slower speed.

To get the right RPM for your setup, simply set the fans at max speeds using a 3rd party software like SpeedFan and drop the speed by 25% until the fan isn’t too loud and temperatures are acceptably cool.

Bearing Type

There are three basic bearing types used in most case fans today and they are as follows:

• Sleeve Bearing
• Double Ball Bearing
• Fluid Dynamic Bearing and Hydrodynamic Bearing

Sleeve Bearing

This type of bearing is the cheapest and is expected to last around 40,000 hours of usage run at 60°C (140°F).

The fan speed is designed to be low-maintenance and have low operating noise. These types of fans are recommended to be mounted vertically, which is said to be quieter.

However, it should be noted that these tend to break down without any warning despite having low operating noise.

Double Ball Bearing

The double ball bearing is more expensive than sleeve bearings, but they do last longer; up to 60,000 to 75,000 hours run at 60°C (140°F).

Unlike sleeve bearings, these can be mounted in any position and are also louder. This is why it’s not recommended for home usage, but are perfect for server farms.

Fluid Dynamic Bearing and Hydrodynamic Bearing

These are the premium bearings. They tend to last the longest, reaching up to 100,000 to 300,000 hours of usage run at 60°C (140°F).

Like the double ball bearing, they can be fitted in any position. They also have the lowest noise levels of the three and are fit for both server and home usage – though they are preferred mostly for home use since they are a little more pricey.

Noise (dBA)

Fan noise is measured in A-weighted decibels (dBA). A-weighted decibels is a way we can measure how loud a sound is to the human ear. Almost all case fan manufacturers include the noise level of the fan.

Some factors that contribute to fan noise includes:

• Type of bearing used
• The distance of the blades from one another and the outer ring
• How the blades are designed
• How fast the blades spin (Speed/ RPMs)

Generally, it ranges anywhere between 10dBA to 36dBA. Regardless, you’ll want a case fan with the least amount of noise for obvious reasons. Here is a scale of how loud these noises are compared to everyday sounds:

Power Connectors

There are three types of fan power connectors:

• 4-pin connectors let you control the fan on-the-fly using a third party software like SpeedFan.
• 3-pin connectors can only be adjusted by altering the voltage in the BIOS. But not all motherboards support this feature.

Running the 3-pin connectors at a low voltage may lead to problems or may not run the fan at all. So make sure you know exactly what you’re doing when doing this.

• MOLEX connectors will run at full speed at all times and cannot be adjusted in any way.

Connector types affect compatibility so check your motherboard’s connector type before purchasing.

Aesthetics

Case fans can be customised to improve how your PC looks with either colour rings or RGB lighting. When it comes to fans we tend to place more priority on function as these will help the longevity of your system’s lifespan.

Intake/Exhaust

When installing fans into your case, you will need to choose whether each fan is going to be an intake or exhaust fan.

Ideally, you want to make sure you have at least one intake and one exhaust but don’t worry about the ratio too much.

Some terms to be familiar with are:

• Neutral air pressure – Equal amount of air goes in and out of the case. You will technically never reach a perfect state of equilibrium, but you can get close.
• Positive air pressure – Fans pull more air into the case. This can cause air to be brought in through smaller holes that don’t have filters or fans. This means that you will get dust deposits in unpredicted places.
• Negative air pressure – Fans push more air out from the case, creating a vacuum.

Obviously, you’d want to have neutral air pressure, and a good way to accurately get this right is by measuring the total CFM of all intake fans and CFM of all the exhaust fans.

You get a positive air pressure if the intake CFM is greater and negative if the exhaust is greater. An equal number of CFM means you have roughly neutral air pressure. Do note, that if a fan is obstructed, then it will not be netting its max CFM.

It’s also worth noting that fan placement can be tricky to get down. So it can be best to pay attention to where the majority of your dust builds up. If you feel it’s causing problems, then you can adjust your fan placement accordingly.

If you aren’t sure whether your fans are blowing in or out, then the next section will help you with that.

Determining the Air Flow of the Fan…

When installing case fans, it’s also important that you know which direction the air is blowing.

Most fans have arrows on the sides as an indication. If yours doesn’t, find the grille side (side where the plastic holding the middle hub is), because in general, air is blown out away from this side.

How To Choose The Best Case Fan For Your Rig

Knowing all these key terms, how do you choose the best case fan for your rig? You’ll want to look at the following:

Know your needs and wants. Make a pre-evaluation of your needs and prioritize what your PC really needs. Are you having problems with a specific area or are you on the lookout to find a decent case fan for preventive measures?

Don’t forget to check your PC’s connector type. Before shopping, make sure you check your motherboard’s available connectors to avoid compatibility problems.

Measure the sizes. Refer to your case manual or website to see the exact measurement of and the number of compatible fans.

Is noise going to be an issue? If you need a case fan that’s silent, consider choosing one with the least amount of noise. On the other hand, if noise isn’t an issue, chances are you’ll find one that’s not as silent, but still performs well for less money.

How do you want to control your fan? Get a fan with a 4-pin connector if you want to control the fan speeds on the fly via a third-party software. Otherwise, most average users will do fine with 3-pin fans.